By Mary Rhodes Copyright September 18, 2001
This sock looks spectacular!!! It has a very nice heel shaped using short rowing. This is a technique usually associated with knitting but works great when adapted for crochet. Working from the toes up, you will be able to try on your sock as you crochet to ensure a perfect fit.
Fingering or sport weight yarn, 100 grams/size E hook, or size needed for
gauge: 5.5 sts/inch in patt,
OR DK or light worsted weight yarn, 100-200 grams/size G hook, or size needed for gauge: 4.5 sts/inch in patt,
OR heavy worsted or bulky weight yarn, 200 grams/size I hook, or size needed for gauge: 3.5 sts/inch in patt.
Note: The amounts of yarn given are for ankle socks to fit medium adult feet. For knee socks, you will need up to twice as much yarn as for ankle socks. Also, socks for smaller feet will use much less yarn than socks for larger feet.
Instructions are given for fingering weight yarn, with changes for sport and worsted in ().
For better fit, measure: length of the foot from toe to heel: _____, and the size around at the instep/arch: _____.
Pattern Stitch (worked in a coil, over an odd number of stitches): *Sc1, dc1. Repeat from * around.
Toe Increase: (dc1, sc1, dc1) all in next stitch.
To Begin: Starting at the toe, ch 10 (8, 6). Working into the bottom bump of each stitch, slip stitchin the 3rd chain from the hook and in each chain across, making the last sl st into the first chain. From here on, insert hook under both top loops of each stitch, as usual in crochet.
Continue in a coil (right side facing): Ch1. Sc1 into the first chain. Dc1 in next stitch. Continue in pattern stitch to end of side, ending with sc1. Make a toe increase in the next stitch to turn corner. Place a marker in the middle sc of the increase. Continue in patt st to end of side, ending with dc1 in last slip st. Sc1 in the ch1 that started this round. Make a toe increase in the next sc. Place marker in the middle sc of the increase.
*Continue in patt to next marker. Inc. Move marker to middle sc of inc.
Find your instep size on this chart, and repeat from * for a total of this many stitches:
|TOTAL # OF STITCHES|
|5||25 (19, 15) stitches around|
|6||29 (23, 17)|
|7||35 (27, 21)|
|8||39 (31, 23)|
|9||45 (35, 26)|
|10||49 (39, 29)|
Remove markers and set aside. Continue in patt, without any more increases, until the piece measures about 2 inches LESS than the desired foot length. Lay the piece flat. Place a marker in the sc at each side corner. Continue in patt to first marker, ending with a dc in the marked stitch. Remove marker.
Turning the heel -- Short Row Decreases and Increases (For a firmer heel, hold 2 strands together for heel.)
Decreasing: Ch1, turn. Sc1 in same dc. Dc1 in next sc. **Sc1 in next dc. Dc1 in next sc.** Repeat from ** to ** to marker. Remove marker. This is the first short row.
*Ch1, turn. Sc1 in same dc. Dc1 in next sc. **Sc1 in next dc. Dc1 in next sc.** Repeat from ** to ** ending with dc1 in 3rd st from end of row. Repeat from * until the short row section is half as tall as it is wide; the whole piece should measure desired foot length.
Increasing: Next row: Chain 1, turn. Cont in patt across row, ending with dc1 in last sc. Insert hook in sc row-end below current stitch. Yarnover and draw up loop. Draw up loop in next dc. Yarnover, pull through all 3 loops. Dc1 in next sc.
Repeat this row until all decreases have been increased back, ending with a wrong side row.
Next row: Ch1, turn (right side facing). Continue in patt across row, ending with dc1 in last sc. Draw up loop in side of same sc and in next dc. Yarnover, and pull through all 3 loops. Dc in next sc. Continue in patt across instep, ending with dc1 in last sc before heel. Draw up loop in next stitch. Draw up loop in next sc row-end. Yarnover, and pull through all 3 loops. Dc1 in next sc. End of heel shaping. If you used 2 strands for the heel, cut off second strand and continure with just one strand.
For a straight leg: Continue in patt in a coil until leg measures 6 or desired length from top of heel shaping. After last sc, sc1 in next sc. Slip stitch in next 2 sts. Fasten off, tuck in loose ends. Make 2nd sock to match.
Optional (may require more yarn): For a shaped leg (note desired size around for sock leg _____) : Continue in patt for 4. Place marker in center back dc. *Continue in patt to marked stitch. (sc1, ch1, sc1) all in marked st, to increase 2 stitches. Move marker to ch. Continue in patt for 2 more rounds. Move marker to current stitch each time you make a stitch in the marked stitch. Repeat from * until the sock measures desired size around. Note: It would be good if you ended with a total number of stitches close to a multple of 6 if you want to make the Chevron Ribbing.
Continue in patt without any more increases until the sock measures desired length.
Chevron Ribbing for knee sock: End sock body with sc1. Work 1 round in shell stitch: *Sk 2, 5dc in next st, sk 2, sc1 in next st. Repeat from * around. Since you arent starting with a multiple of 6 stitches, you will have to fudge a little, by skipping only 1 stitch instead of 2, just a few times. End with 1sc in first sc of round. Mark this sc.
Next round: *Sc1 in next 2 dc. (Sc1, ch1, sc1) all in next dc. Sc1 in next 2 dc. Skip next sc. Repeat from * around once.
Next round: *Sc1 in next 2 sc. (Sc1, ch1, sc1) all in next ch1 space. Sc1 in next 2 sc. Skip next 2 sc. Repeat from * around for a total of 6 rounds, or desired length of cuff. Slip stitch in next 2 sts. Fasten off. Tuck in loose ends. Make 2nd sock to match.