Copyright May 14, 2000. All rights reserved
Broomstick Lace (also known as peacock’s eye crochet) is one of a number of forms of crochet which rely not only upon a hook but a secondary frame to attain the final pattern. Hairpin lace and the various "daisy" looms belong to this same group. In all of these forms single crochet (double, etc.) is required to hold the frame-formed work together. As the single crochet is easy to make, these frame-formed crochets have enjoyed widespread popularity among people who "cannot crochet" since the 1880’s. Given hooks and a will to do these interesting variations on the standard approach, their popularity will sail cheerfully into the Third Millennium without the help of programmers and such. The technique produces work which cannot be made as simply and as rapidly in any other way. It also happens to be beautiful. End of discussion.
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The MATERIALS and EQUIPMENT required for broomstick lace are fairly simple. The "frame" is a mandrill (a cylindrical or rod-like form) from ¾ to 2 inches in diameter with a short point. Depending upon the project the mandrill should be ten or more inches in length. Recently, knitting needles in US sizes 10 1/2 to 50 have been used. In the smaller sizes the point becomes too long to use easily. The ideal mandrill should have a short but defined point shifting quickly to the cylinder. The hook used should be of a size to fit the thread/yarn employed (hooks E and F for sports weight, G, H for worsted weight and 4 and 7 in steel hooks for thread of size 5 and 10). The fiber for the project can be almost anything. However, the single crochet is not a "locking stitch" so some threads may tend to slide. Fibers with a "fuzz" will be easiest to handle. But, easy for one is hard for another crocheter. Ribbon, metal fibers, raffia, rags, tied plastic bags, what have you can be/have been used.
The PROCESS of making broomstick lace is a simple four line crochet pattern.
1. Make a chain of multiples of four, five or six. This determines the "eye" of the peacock. Fewer than four multiples will produce a skimpy lace, and more than six requires the handling of too many threads. Place the last loop of the chain (this counts as part of the multiple) on the "broomstick" mandrill.
2. With the original chain on the left hand side of the mandrill and the mandrill tilted to the left pull up a loop of the fiber with a crochet hook in the next chain and slip onto the mandrill. This takes a bit of a flip of the right wrist and wagging of the left index finger to make it go fast. Repeat for each chain made. The loops should be firm but not tight. This is GAUGE CITY!!
3. When all the chains have been used up there should be a group of loops on the mandrill divisible by four, five or six depending upon your plan. Rotate the mandrill 180 degrees so that the original chain is on the right side (or the bulk of the work is on the right side). With the mandrill tilted to the right, carefully slip off four, five or six loops and twist them COUNTER CLOCK WISE between the left thumb and middle finger. Insert the hook through the loop of threads and make a SLIP STITCH. Make four, five or six single crochets into the loop. Slip off the next sequence of four, five or six loops, rotate counter clock wise and make four, five or six single crochets into the loop of threads. Continue across. The slip stitch is made only into the first set of loops. Single crochets are sufficient for the rest.
4. Place the loop from the last single crochet back on the mandrill, rotate 180 degrees so that the bulk of the work is on the left, the mandrill tilted to the left, and pick up a loop through each single crochet and place it on to the mandrill. Repeat from line 3 until the work is as long as needed, or you fall over dead. Finish as below. As you become familiar with this form of crochet it will become obvious how to increase and decrease stitches to make shawls, sweaters and such.
THE TRICKS ARE AS FOLLOWS.
A) Slip stitch into the FIRST set of loops taken off before starting the single crochets. B) When putting loops onto the mandrill have the work on the left side of the mandrill. C) When single crocheting off the loops always have the work on the right side of the mandrill. D) Always rotate the cluster of loops counter clockwise. E) Hold the mandrill between your thighs. Why all of these tricks? Here are some reasons in order. A slip stitch is REQUIRED to start a single crochet with any chance of locking. For those of you who like a belt and suspenders, a chain one as well is good! The left side to put on and the right side to take off rule is one of those universal things. Just try the reverse and the lace will not work! Rotation counter clock wise is easiest. If you can do it clockwise, go ahead and do it. But, once started it must be done the same (or, with some regular pattern). If you can pick a better place to hold the mandrill other than between your thighs, go for it!
INCREASING OR DECREASING THE WIDTH OF THE LACE is done by skips, chains and slip stitches while putting on the loops (step 4 above). To DECREASE at the beginning of a row of loops slip stitch in the desired number of single crochets (a multiple of four, five or six), then start putting on the loops as usual. To DECREASE at the end of a row of loops, stop putting on loops, turn the work and begin taking loops off (step 3 above).
INCREASING is a bit more tedious. To increase at the end of taking off loops with single crochets (step 3) chain the required number of loops to be added, turn the work, and pick up loops in each chain. Continue across in the single crochets as usual. To increase while taking off loops, chain the required number of loops to be added, slip stitch in each chain back to the broomstick (the thread will be in the wrong location after chaining) and pick up loops in the chain/slip stitches.
This may seem a bit confusing. Here is a short example. To increase by ten loops on each side of the work (a five loop peacock’s eye) chain ten after finishing the last of the existing loops with single crochets. Turn the work and pick up loops in each added chain (ten loops added). Pick up loops in the single crochets across. After the last single crochet is picked up, chain ten. Slip stitch back to the broom stick in each chain. Pick up a loop in each slip stitched chain. Ten loops have now been added to the other end of the work. This will amount to four five-strand peacock’s eyes.
For my part, I prefer to start a piece that is to be triangular or trapezoidal at the widest end and do a series of decreases to develop the shape. I find it easier to keep track of decreases.
When doing a garment with a "V" neck there is no choice but to work one side first, finish, and start the other side with a new thread. Naturally, this is done at the single crochet step. Knitters do this on most pullover sweaters.
All forms of frame assisted crochet require some form of FINISHING. Loops require tacking down or edging in. Broomstick lace is no exception. When the final row of single crochets is made (row 4 above) don’t place the last loop onto the mandrill but chain one, turn and do single crochets in each single crochet across. Make three single crochets in the corner. Carefully pick out two loops of thread in the upper part of the "peacock’s eye" and single crochet twice into them. Carefully pick out two loops of thread belonging to the lower part of the "peacock’s eye" and single crochet as before. Single crochet in the end of the single crochet row and continue as above. Pay careful attention to tension. Depending upon mandrill diameter it may be necessary to do more than two single crochets in each "eye". When you get to the starting chain, do a three single crochet turn and single crochet across. Do another three single crochet turn. Go up the side as given, slip stitch into the first single crochet, and finish off. After the entire work is bounded by single crochets anything is possible: fringe, more and more complicated crochet rounds, sew on material.
BLOCKING broomstick lace is very important when done in finer yarns. After a light washing, pins should be placed at top and bottom corners. Then, individual rows should be laid off as desired. Err on the side of relaxed. This is not an open work chain doily, but it is a lot more fun! Enjoy this variation in crochet!!! It has been around for a while and has unexplored possibilities.
The Knitting Room
San Jose, CA
May 14, 1999